In 1984, Arizona’s prison system instituted an unusual punishment for its most recalcitrant inmates. When the news broke, many were outraged. The American Civil Liberties Union filed a lawsuit, calling it “cruel and unusual punishment.”
A prison spokesman responded, saying “This is a last resort disciplinary measure. It was designed to deal with prisoners who choose to act and live like animals.”
The Chicago Tribune’s late, great Mike Royko wrote about it in his March 21 column that year:
“...I hesitate even describing it because it is so diabolical, so chilling, so terrible that you might not be able to read on. But I’ll do it anyway.
Here goes. The [ultimate punishment] means that for seven days or longer the prisoner eats nothing but meatloaf. He gets meatloaf in the morning with a glass of orange juice. Meatloaf and water for lunch. And meatloaf and water for dinner.
No catsup. No Worcestershire sauce. No side dishes. Only meatloaf for seven days, three meals a day.
I mean, these men might be cutthroats, thieves, murderers, fiends or even worse, but they are still human beings.
The spokesman for the prison explained that the meatloaf meets standard nutritional levels. [And said] “… it doesn’t taste like something your mother might have made. We don’t put any spices in it. It is rather bland. And they don’t get salt and pepper.”
I don’t always agree with the ACLU, but in this case I do. I can think of very few things more callous than forcing somebody to eat meatloaf for 21 straight meals[or more]. Even meatloaf that is seasoned would be cruel. But with no catsup, salt, or pepper, it is almost inhuman.”
Of course, alongside those outraged cries were a lot of guffaws. Almost overnight meatloaf became a national laughingstock – fodder for late-night comedians and water-cooler jokes.
I’m sure that Arizona prison meatloaf was grim – especially remembering my college cafeteria’s version. But, of course, meatloaf is just a canvas that can be made wonderful or horrible, depending on what goes into it. The fanciest French pâtés are essentially glorified meatloaves.
Today, memories of the meatloaf torture have faded, and meatloaf – along with other comfort foods – is enjoying a renaissance, even appearing on menus in restaurants that would never have served it back then. Maldaner’s chef/owner, Michael Higgins, serves an excellent lunchtime meatloaf sandwich topped with caramelized onions. Caitie Girl’s serves a double-layered meatloaf iced with mashed root vegetables. And Lake Pointe Grill’s delectable smoked Gouda-stuffed meatloaf has been one of their best-selling items since it opened, according to manager Krysti Rinaldi, who says it will always be on the menu.
Contact Julianne Glatz @[email protected].
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