Oyster aficionados say that the best, and sexiest, way to eat them is au naturel — freshly shucked, briny, sleekly slipping from their shell into your mouth with their liquor, with only a breath of lemon, or a dash of hot or cocktail sauce. I don’t disagree. But baked oysters can be wonderful, too, especially when not overcooked or when their flavor isn’t overwhelmed by toppings. This is my favorite baked oyster preparation, which I first had at the Buckeye Roadhouse in Marin County, Calif.
OYSTERS BINGO
Oysters in the shell, medium sized Chopped cooked spinach, squeezed dry, approximately 2 tsp.-1 T. per oyster Aïoli, recipe follows, approximately 2 tsp.-1 T. per oyster Freshly grated Parmeggiano-Reggiano cheese, approximately 1 tsp. per oyster Purchase oysters that are tightly closed and fresh. Don’t be afraid to ask when they came in. Scrub them thoroughly under cold running water with a stiff brush.
Before shelling, look at the oyster. One side should be flatter; the other more rounded. It’s usually easiest to open the oyster with the rounded side down. Now locate the hinge. In most oyster varieties, one end is more rounded and the other more pointed. The hinge is located in the narrow end. Cover the oyster with a folded towel or a thick pad so that just the hinge area is exposed. This is important. It’s very easy to stab your hand if it is not protected. Hold the oyster firmly with the towel on a work surface. Insert the tip of the oyster knife into the hinge. Rock the knife up and down at first, then a little side to side to break the hinge.
Once the hinge is broken, use your knife to sever the muscle from the top shell. Gently remove any bits of shell leaving as much of the liquor as possible. Then sever the muscle from the bottom shell, leaving the oyster in the bottom shell.
Preheat the broiler. Place the oysters on an ovenproof tray, preferably lined with parchment paper and/or filled with rock salt. Cover each oyster with the spinach, then cover the spinach completely with a thin layer of aioli. Sprinkle lightly with the cheese.
Broil until the aioli is set, and it and the cheese lightly browned, 5-10 minutes. Depending on your oven, you may want to rotate the tray so they brown evenly.
As with all classic mayonnaises, aïoli, the delectable French Provençal garlic mayonnaise, uses uncooked eggs. If you can’t find free-range eggs (which substantially reduce the risk of egg-born salmonella) or have health concerns, substitute 1 c. store-bought mayonnaise, such as Hellman’s (not Miracle Whip/salad dressing) for the egg and oil, and mixing in the remaining ingredients.
AÏOLI
1 large free-range egg
1 tsp. sugar
1 tsp. Dijon or stone-grained mustard
½ tsp. salt 3–4 sliced garlic cloves or to taste
½ c. extra virgin olive oil
½ c. neutral flavored vegetable oil such as canola
Combine the egg, sugar, mustard, salt and garlic cloves in the container of an electric blender or food processor. Blend a couple of minutes or until the mixture is thoroughly puréed. With the motor still running, slowly pour the olive oil in a very thin stream into the container. It’s most important to add it slowly in the beginning.
Makes about 1 ½ cups.
