Risotto is a great way to enjoy lobster affordably. The shells impart flavor to the rice (classic lobster bisques use only the shells for flavoring).

The creamy rice studded with lobster chunks is as decadently luxurious — if not more so — than lobster by itself. This recipe is easily doubled. Though there is that last minute stirring, everything else can be prepared ahead of time.

LOBSTER RISOTTO

1 to 1½ lb. lobster, cooked ¾ c. Arborio, Carnaroli, or Vialone nano rice 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/4 c. minced shallots, preferred, or onion 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1/4 c. dry or bianco vermouth 1 tsp. dried tarragon 4 c. chicken or vegetable stock kosher or sea salt and pepper to taste 1 T. each of minced fresh tarragon and flat leaf parsley

Note: Crab legs or shrimp can be substituted for the lobster, or use them in combination.

Use the same amount of cooked crab as lobster, or ¾ lbs. uncooked shrimp, using shells as above. Add shelled, uncooked shrimp to the risotto a couple minutes before finishing.

Shell lobsters, keeping the claw meat intact if possible. This is easiest to do by cutting the clawshells with kitchen shears. If you’ve been able to keep them whole, set aside.

Otherwise, add the claw meat pieces to the rest of the lobster meat, cut into bite-sized chunks, along with any bright red roe. The roe is found in females and is considered a delicacy. During cooking, it will have solidified into clumps; roll the clumps gently between your fingers to separate the tiny eggs, then add to the reserved meat. The flavorful greenish tomalley inside the body cavity is the lobster’s “liver.” Reserve it separately to add to the stock.

Discard the cartilage and body sac. Cut the thinner, more pliable parts of the shell into small pieces with kitchen shears; crush the harder claw shells with a clean hammer or mallet.

Combine crushed shells and chicken stock in a pot, and simmer over very low heat. The mixture should barely simmer (an occasional bubble lazily rising to the surface), covered, for an hour. Before beginning the risotto, strain stock through a fine mesh sieve, add the reserved tomalley, and keep warm on the stove.

In a medium heavy pan, melt the butter over medium low heat, then add the shallots and sauté until they are soft but not brown.

Add the rice and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring so the rice is thoroughly coated and absorbs the butter. Add the tomato paste and cook a couple minutes longer, until the tomato paste just begins to darken. Add the tarragon and vermouth and cook until it’s almost completely absorbed. Ladle stock into the pan until the rice is completely covered to about ½ inch of liquid above the rice. Stir slowly but constantly. The rice will gradually absorb the liquid. When enough liquid has been absorbed so that none is above the rice, ladle in more stock to again cover by ½ inch. Continue stirring and adding more stock until the rice is “al dente” tender, but still firm (although completely cooked). This should take 18-20 minutes. The mixture should be quite liquid — “saucy.” You may or may not use all the stock.

Gently stir in the reserved lobster meat and cook just until heated through. Taste and adjust seasoning. Gently warm reserved lobster claws in a microwave or on a stove.

Serve in shallow soup plates or wide-rimmed plates, garnished with the claw meat (if possible), sprinkled with the fresh tarragon and parsley.

Serves two.