I’ve been making this recipe ever since I found it in a Gourmet magazine shortly after I was married. For years it was my standard dinner party entrée, served on a bed of wild rice pilaf. Although I’ve broadened my repertoire considerably since then, it remains a favorite. Not only is it delicious, the breasts can be stuffed a day or two ahead of time, making it ideal for entertaining. I’ve altered it somewhat over the years. The original recipe left the skin on the breasts, broiling them lightly after baking, but I think the pancetta makes them especially attractive — and adds extra flavor.

CHICKEN BREASTS STUFFED WITH RICOTTA AND SPINACH

6 boneless skinless chicken breasts
¼ c. Kosher salt, plus additional for seasoning
2 c. ricotta, preferably whole milk
¾ c. cooked chopped spinach
1 T. lemon juice
1 tsp. minced garlic, or more or less to taste
¼ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
½ c. freshly grated aged asiago or parmagianno
reggiano cheese, or ¾ c if using a
microplane grater
¾ c. minced proscuitto or other ham
Freshly ground pepper to taste
12 paper thin slices pancetta, or substitute
very thinly sliced bacon
Approximately 1 c. chicken stock
Approximately 1 c. dry white wine
or vermouth
6 T. unsalted butter, chilled and cut into bits
Coarsely chopped fresh parsley, preferably
flat-leafed, for garnish, optional

Place the ¼ c. Kosher salt in a large resealable plastic bag and add 4 c. cool or cold water. Seal the bag and squish and shake gently until the salt is dissolved. Add the chicken breasts, press to get out as much air as possible, then refrigerate for 2-4 hours.

In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta, spinach, lemon, garlic, nutmeg, asiago and ham. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Drain the chicken breasts and pat them dry with a paper towel. Place the chicken breasts between sheets of parchment paper or plastic wrap and lightly pound to an equal thickness (approximately ½ inch) with a mallet or heavy skillet. It’s OK if there are some ragged ends. Place the breasts cut side up and place equal portions of the ricotta mixture in the center of each. Shape the ricotta mixture into a flat oval and fold the sides and ends over to make a package that will look a little like a baking potato, tucking in any ragged ends. It’s OK if it’s not completely sealed. Refrigerate them if not baking immediately. Let come to room temperature for 1-2 hours before baking.

Preheat the oven to 450º. Very lightly butter an ovenproof and heatproof vessel that will comfortably hold the chicken breasts without cowding. (It’s better to use two vessels than cramming them into one.) Place the chicken breasts, seam side down, in the container. Top each breast with two pancetta slices, overlapping them slightly.

Pour in equal parts of chicken stock and wine so that the liquid comes up to a depth of between ¼ and ½ inch The pancetta should not be submerged.

Place in the oven and bake until the chicken is cooked but still moist and the stuffing is hot 20-30 minutes, depending on the size of the breasts. Check after 20 minutes.

Remove the chicken breasts from the pan, cover, and keep warm. Strain the pan juices or not. (There will probably be shreds of spinach in it — I usually only strain it if company’s coming.) Place the pan with the juices on the stove over high heat and reduce the liquid by about half. When it is just right, you’ll see and hear a change in the bubbles.

Remove the pan from the heat and let set for about 15 seconds. Whisk in the chilled butter, a few pieces at a time. The butter should emulsify into the liquid, but not completely melt, creating a creamy sauce. Season to taste.

Drizzle some of the sauce over the chicken breasts, sprinkle with the parsley and serve immediately, passing the extra sauce separately.

Serves 6.