I’ve always wondered how the large, pendulous purple orb, called an aubergine, melanzana or brinjal in other languages, came to be known as an “eggplant.” It turns out that the variety grown in Europe during the 18 th century was off-white and resembled goose eggs. The first plants to reach the American colonies were grown as ornamentals and also looked like eggs.

Modern eggplant varieties come in a myriad of shapes, sizes and colors, and consequently can be prepared in many different ways. Large eggplants can be roasted over wood or charcoal, and the smoky, soft insides can be made into a spread or dip known as baba ghanoush. Slices from large eggplants can be breaded and fried or made into eggplant Parmesan. Cubes from large eggplants or slices from smaller eggplants can be made into vegetable stews such as French ratatouille or Indian brinjal curry. Eggplant slices can be grilled like steaks over wood or charcoal.

Eggplants are very sponge-like and can absorb massive amounts of oil when sautéed or fried, so it is common practice to salt eggplant cubes or slices prior to cooking to draw out moisture and make them less absorbent. When grilling or roasting eggplant, brushing the cut surfaces with olive oil using a pastry brush will help minimize the amount of oil the eggplant soaks up.

It was commonly thought that salting eggplant reduces bitterness, but a bitter eggplant will remain bitter regardless of salting. For optimal flavor, eggplants should not be refrigerated, just kept in a cool place. Most eggplants deteriorate below 50 F.

Undercooked eggplant is extremely unappealing; eggplant should be cooked until a creamy softness is achieved. When grilling or roasting eggplant, this can be facilitated by scoring the cut surface with ¼-inch crisscrossed cuts using the tip of a sharp knife.

CAVIAR D’AUBERGINE AU CUMIN

(Chunky eggplant cumin spread)

This dish is baba ghanoush’s sexy French cousin.

Enjoy on crackers or thin baguette slices.

2 pounds firm eggplant

2 teaspoons cumin seed

2 garlic cloves, peeled and halved

1 tablespoon tahini (sesame paste)

1 tablespoon lemon juice

½ teaspoon salt Preheat oven to 450 F.

Prick the eggplants all over with a fork.

Place the eggplants directly on an oven rack placed in the center of the oven. Place a baking sheet or pan beneath the eggplants to collect any juices. Roast until eggplants are soft and wrinkled, about 25 minutes.

Remove eggplants from the oven. Place the eggplants on a clean work surface. Trim off the stem ends with a sharp knife and discard. Cut the eggplants lengthwise in half. Scrape out the eggplant pulp with a spoon and discard skin.

Toast the cumin seeds in a small skillet over moderate heat. Transfer to a large plate to cool. Once cool, grind to a fine powder in a spice grinder.

Combine the garlic, tahini, lemon juice, cumin and salt in a food processor and blender and process into a paste. Add the eggplant and pulse for just a few seconds, leaving the eggplant a bit chunky. Taste for the seasoning, and add additional salt or lemon juice as needed. Serve slightly chilled or at room temperature.

EGGPLANT CAPONATA

Caponata is ratatouille’s sweet-and-sour Italian cousin.

It can be spread on toasts for an appetizer or served as a side dish.

¾ cup olive oil

3 pounds eggplant, cut into

1-inch cubes

1 onion, finely chopped

2 cups tomato sauce

½ cup pitted green olives, roughly chopped

¼ cup roughly-chopped capers

1 cup chopped celery

4 anchovy fillets, chopped

¼ cup red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Heat a large, heavy pot over medium heat.

Add ¼ cup olive oil and add 1/3 of the eggplant cubes. Brown on all sides, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a dish and repeat with the remaining two batches of eggplant, adding 2 more tablespoons oil each time.

Add another ¼ cup of olive oil in the pot and add the onion with a pinch of salt. Cook until the onion starts to pick up some color, about 5 minutes.

Add the tomato sauce, olives, capers, celery and anchovies, and simmer. Return the eggplant to the pot and add the vinegar and sugar. Gently stir the mixture and let simmer, uncovered, for about 30 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper. Serve at room temperature.

EGGPLANT MARINARA

The eggplant in this dish is often breaded and fried.

This is a leaner, lighter version.

3 large eggplants, sliced cross-wise into

1/3-inch-thick discs

¼ cup olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 cups tomato sauce

3 cups grated

Parmesan cheese ½ large ball fresh mozzarella (about 8 ounces), cut into ¼-inch-thick slices Toss the eggplant slices with salt and drain in a colander for 20 minutes.

Pre-heat the oven to 350 F. Brush the eggplant slices with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Arrange the eggplant slices in a single layer across two baking sheets. Roast in the oven for 30 minutes, turning over once midway, until the slices start to brown. Do not undercook; the slices should be soft and a bit creamy.

Coat the bottom of a casserole or lasagna pan with a thick layer of tomato sauce. Lay a single layer of eggplant slices over the sauce, season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with Parmesan. Continue to layer with tomato, eggplant, salt and pepper and Parmesan until all the ingredients are used, and finish with a coating of Parmesan. Cover the pan with foil and bake for 1 hour.

Remove the foil, top with mozzarella slices, and put under the broiler until the mozzarella slices melt. Alternately, allow the eggplant marinara to cool and cover with cold mozzarella slices. Serve at room temperature.

Contact Peter Glatz at [email protected]