FOOD | Julianne Glatz

Fresh artichokes aren’t local, even though recently cultivars have been developed for home gardeners outside the Mediterraneantype climate that’s their natural habitat (my attempts at artichoke-growing have been dismal at best). Like strawberries, fresh artichokes are available throughout much of the year in groceries, but they’re at their seasonal best in spring.

Edible artichokes are the buds of a perennial thistle, genus Cynara, originating in the Mediterranean. Wild artichokes can still be found in Northern Africa, but they’ve been cultivated around the Mediterranean for at least 2,000 years, which is still where their production is concentrated. Italy grows more than twice as much as any other country.

In America, California produces virtually all commercially grown artichokes and more than 80 percent come from Monterey County. The Monterey town of Castroville calls itself the “Artichoke Capital of the World.” That’s dubious: Italy produces more than eight times as many artichokes as America. Still I’ve had lots of fun driving around Monterey County in spring, when roadside artichoke stands sprout up everywhere.

Italy (and other Mediterranean countries) grow many artichoke varieties, some purple, others green, some as small as an egg. American artichokes are almost exclusively the giant globe type as big as a softball. “Baby” artichokes aren’t really babies, they’re smaller side buds of the big guys.

When buying artichokes, choose ones that are heavy for their size. The best way to judge that is to hold and compare several. Check the stem: the cut edge will be brown, but the stem should be green and not withered; the leaves should be green with no dry brown patches.

Contact Julianne Glatz at [email protected].