FOOD | Julianne Glatz

They’re luscious, ripe, and ready. At their succulent best, their quintessential peak.

Melons – specifically watermelons and cantaloupes. Every so often my grandfather used to grow watermelons and cantaloupes. But they were never more than just OK. Our black, loamy soil was much too rich. Papa knew that was why, but it aggravated him that he couldn’t grow good melons. So after a few years passed, he’d make another attempt. And again the melons would disappoint. And a few years later, he’d try again.

Papa wanted to produce melons as good as those grown by friends who lived just a short drive west of Springfield. But some things just aren’t meant to be. His friends lived around towns such as Beardstown, Chandlerville and Kampsville, where the Illinois River Valley’s sandy soil produces some of the world’s best cantaloupes and watermelons. Then as now, the first Illinois River Valley melons began showing up in late June/early July. By mid- August through September, they’re at their abundant best, sold at farmers markets and out of the back of roadside pickup trucks.

No store-bought melon ever tastes half as good. The first Illinois River Valley melons of the season are best consumed as is, just a slice – or two, or three. And, incidentally, they’re at their most flavorful when still warm from the sun. I wouldn’t dream of eating the first melons of the season any other way. But by this time of year, I’m ready to occasionally use their succulent flesh in other ways.

Contact Julianne Glatz at [email protected].