Everything is fresh, and the vibe is great!

Periodically, 318 Forum’s always-hungry reporter visits a local restaurant and tells you about the experience.

Because of where I live, I drive by Cush’s Grocery & Market (9535 Ellerbe Road, Shreveport) once or twice a day. Maybe because Cush’s doesn’t have a big sign on the front of the building, it’s not a place I think of when it comes to having lunch or dinner.

But on a recent Friday, I gave a friend a list of places to choose from where we could have lunch and I could write a review. He chose Cush’s, where he has been a frequent customer for most of its 28 years in business.

You’d better look closely if you’re driving on Ellerbe Road and looking for Cush’s. Their only sign is one of those real-estate-agent-looking signs in the ground by the side of the street. However, if you’re approaching from Flournoy-Lucas Road, there is a large sign on the side of the building that makes it easier to spot.

My friend and I arrived at 11:30, and his experience quickly came into play. He said it was good that we were there early because the place would fill up quickly. There is a limited amount of seating, but sure enough, by noon, every table was full, including those on the patio.

As the name indicates, Cush’s is more than a restaurant. In fact, “restaurant” isn’t even in its name. Here, you can buy everything from boxes of Wheat Thins to bottles of wine. Also, who knew there were so many varieties of jellies and jams? If you want to pick up something and take it home to eat, Cush’s has glass cases with the likes of meat pies, chicken salad, twice-baked potatoes, chicken and steak.

But we were there to eat in-house.

28 years of delicious food and great service at Cush’s Grocery

The vegetable pasta is a standout.

My friend and I had two servers, both of whom were very pleasant and attentive. One of them told us the staff does whatever is needed. So, if one server is busy with a large party, another server will help at a table for two. Now, that’s a great strategy — putting the customer first.

Cush’s offered seven appetizers. Some you could get as either a small or large portion. We went with egg rolls ($10). They came six to an order, and while not particularly large, they were filled with vegetables and pork, fried just right, and came with a sweet-and-sour sauce which, to me, tasted more like BBQ sauce. The rolls and the sauce were very good.

My friend ordered a cup of gumbo ($8), which, according to the menu, was soup and not an appetizer. He gets Cush’s gumbo often and knows what to expect — and he was not disappointed. The gumbo was filled with shrimp, oysters and at least one crab claw. He said Cush’s gumbo consistently has more shrimp than any other restaurant.

The menu includes plenty of options for all meal preferences. Cush’s is a salad lover’s dream, with 21 varieties. It also offers several burgers, po-boys and sandwiches. If you’re in the mood for something heavier, you have several choices, from pasta to steaks.

Probably 80% of my diet consists of salads (although I’m not sure you could tell by looking at me). However, my friend strongly suggested I, a Cush’s newbie, try their pasta. He says Cush’s has some of the best Italian food in town (he loves their lasagna). Pasta isn’t usually something I have for lunch on a 90-degree day, but my friend seldom steers me in the wrong direction. So, I ordered the vegetable pasta ($16).

While one of our servers was walking from the kitchen with our food, I saw white smoke rising from my plate. It looked like the video you see when a pope is elected. If you are a frequent reader of these reviews, you know I like it when food that is supposed to be hot is hot. And the vegetable pasta was hot. The large plate was loaded with angel hair pasta and covered with sauteed green and yellow zucchini, broccoli, and carrot strips.

(I chose to leave off the Romano cheese).

Cush’s gumbo

Eggroll appetizer

The pasta was cooked appropriately, not clumped together, and went down smooth and silky.

My friend ordered the roast beef and cheese po-boy ($13) without the cheese. Again, he knew what to expect, and Cush’s delivered. “It’s a no-frills po-boy in the best way,” my friend said. “There’s no reason to overthink it. It’s dressed in the classic po-boy fashion (lettuce, tomato, mustard, and mayo), with the condiments and vegetables complementing the flavorful brisket without it being overwhelming. You can always count on Cush’s bread to be fresh.” He also had a glass of unsweetened iced tea.

By the time we finished, there really wasn’t a reason for our plates to be washed. We left nothing visible. So, as much as I like to tell you about a restaurant’s desserts, my stomach had no room for anything else. My friend felt the same. Yet, he wasn’t about to leave Cush’s without having one of his favorites, a slice of Italian cream cake ($7).

“The Italian cream cake is always a highlight,” he said. “It’s a delightful dessert, an outstanding exclamation point to a satisfying meal. Satisfying, without being overly sweet.”

My friend, you may have noticed, has a way with words. Also, he was so eager to eat his slice of cake that he forgot to take a picture.

The cost of our meal, before taxes and tip, was $77.80. It was pretty pricy for lunch, but remember, we had basically two appetizers totaling $18.

The only thing I didn’t care for during my visit was that instead of a printed and itemized receipt, I was given the ticket written by one of our servers, which didn’t include prices, to take to the cashier.

Cush’s atmosphere is very nice. You are surrounded by food, and there’s a lively buzz when the dining areas are full. If you go, glance around at the walls. They have many of what I assumed were pictures drawn by children. My friend quickly corrected me, explaining that each image was drawn on a tablecloth by Shreveport’s William Joyce, an Emmy and Academy award winner who has written and illustrated more than 50 children’s books.

Without hesitancy, I give Cush’s Grocery & Market Four Forks. Not only would I return, but I would go out of my way to do so. Thankfully, I don’t have to go out of my way. I just have to remember to stop in on one of the many times a week I pass by.