Local restaurateur shuns retirement, works with grandson

For 42 years, Silver Dollar Grocery was a landmark in the Ledbetter Heights neighborhood just west of downtown Shreveport. It was owned and operated by T.J. Mandina and offered groceries and beer to the neighborhood residents. However, in 2008 when a tornado rolled through downtown Shreveport toppling the steeple from the First Methodist Church, it also demolished the Silver Dollar.

Instead of rebuilding the Silver Dollar Grocery, Mandina chose to build a restaurant on the property at 830 Fannin St.

In its short life, the space has been home to three different restaurants: Monsour’s and most recently Jethro’s Bar and Grill. None of those eateries could ever seem to get a foothold on the market, and for one reason or the other, each closed their operations.

Mandina was approached by his grandson, Alex Carroll, about the two of them opening a restaurant themselves in the space. Carroll had worked for Jethro’s Bar and Grill and had gotten his feet wet in the restaurant business. Mandina agreed, and the two opened Mandina’s Grill utilizing the Italian food recipes of Mandina’s wife, Leona.

While he owned the Silver Dollar, Mandina sold his Mandina’s Italian Sausage from one of Leona’s recipes. Now Mandina’s Grill offers Italian fare building on Leona’s recipes and the family’s Italian heritage.

Mandina’s not only still makes his sausage in-house but bakes their rolls inhouse as well. The handmade meatballs are always a popular item, seasoned impeccably and made from quality meats. The famous Italian sausage comes as an appetizer, on a po’boy with red sauce and cheese, T.J.’s Po’Boy with bell peppers and onions, served with spaghetti and in patty form as an Italian sausage burger. There is also a regular hamburger and cheeseburger on the menu.

Additionally on the Italian menu, Mandina’s Grill offers Italian salad (mixed greens with tomatoes) and Leona’s olive mix topped with parmesan cheese. There is also a meatball po’boy, Italian cutlet po’boy and Leona’s Italian po’boy.

They serve spaghetti with red sauce and with meatballs. Lasagna is served in both a meat variety and vegetable version. Pizzas are also on the menu.

Mandina’s also offers selections outside the Italian realm and presents some seafood choices. There is, of course, a catfish po’boy, fried catfish and grilled tilapia in addition to country fried steak and chicken tenders.

Another choice is the grill’s mint chicken, a dish created by Carroll, which is a grilled chicken breast marinated in mint and olive oil and served with a side of spaghetti.

Keeping the Italian heritage theme alive are outstanding house-made cannoli with both chocolate and vanilla fillings. Beignets round out the dessert menu.

Mandina and Carroll are both thrilled to work in this family partnership, that by all indicators, is being well-received.

“I have really grown to love the restaurant business and to be able to do this with my grandfather is just a dream come true,” Carroll said.

“I was really about ready to retire when the tornado tore down the Silver Dollar, but now I’m excited to be working with my grandson, Alex. His enthusiasm, energy and ideas are wonderful to work with,” Mandina said.

After 42 years at Silver Dollar, Mandina still comes in every day with a new spirit born of working closely with his grandson.

Both grandfather and grandson said they are dedicated to making Mandina’s Grill a success.

“We couldn’t be happier than to be serving our old friends in downtown Shreveport,” Mandina said.

Mandina’s Grill is open 10 a.m. until 2 p.m. Monday through Friday. Their phone number is 221-1455.

– Karl Hasten