thought, always enthusiastic about trying something new. We’d never even thought about Argentina having a unique cuisine.

When we got to the restaurant, however, our enthusiasm cooled. The sign on the outside displayed luridly colored pictures of raw meat. It was a steakhouse — we’d thought it would be Hispanic. We thought about moving on, but the lateness of the hour made us decide to stay. How bad could it be? It was fantastic. The tables each had a small hibachi-type grill — this was a do-ityourself meal. There were a variety of beef cuts and some sausages. It was interesting to compare the different textures and depth of flavors, but what really made the meal special was the little pot of sauce on the table.

Garlicky, herby, it was addictive. Even after we’d eaten our fill of meat, I kept tasting little spoonfuls, trying to fix it in my memory so I could recreate it at home.

Back in Springfield, my first attempts to duplicate the sauce, called chimichurri, were unsuccessful. I eventually tracked down a couple of recipes (this B.I., Before Internet) but they weren’t quite right either. It’s only been a few years since I finally found a version as good as that first one in Amsterdam.

Since then, I almost always have a jar in the refrigerator. To learn more about Argentine food and grilling techniques, I highly recommend Seven Fires: Grilling the Argentine Way by Francis Mallmann. Mallman is the most famous chef in South America. Both USA Today and The London Times have said his restaurants are among the top 10 places to eat in the world. BBQ authority Steven Raichlan calls him “a genius and a true visionary.”

Contact Julianne Glatz at [email protected].