September farmers market finds
Just because summer is drawing to an end and the kids are back to school does not mean that farmers market season is over. The Old State Capitol Farmers Market continues to run Wednesday and Saturday mornings from 8 a.m.-12:30 p.m. through Oct. 31. True, corn and peaches will be done in the next week or so, but now is the time when the full bounty of the Illinois produce season is upon us. Tomatoes, peppers and eggplant are in full swing and will continue to be available through the beginning of October. Peaches give way to pears, plums, apples and grapes, and pumpkins and winter squash replace zucchini. Below are some of my favorite ways to make the most of this late-summer produce.
Apples Apples lend themselves equally well to both savory and sweet applications. Warm homemade applesauce is one of the most delicious and simple treats that can be made. Peel apples and set in a saucepan with some water (about 1 cup of water to 6 pounds of apples). Add juice from half a lemon and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 15- 30 minutes, or until soft and broken down. Add sugar and cinnamon to taste if desired, then mash or puree. Applesauce will keep in the fridge for about a week, and can be added to pancakes and muffin recipes. Hash made from sautéed apples, sweet potatoes, kale and chives makes a delicious compliment to overeasy eggs and is equally suited as breakfast or dinner. Roast slices of apple with peeled whole or halved shallots is a perfect accompaniment to roast pork or chicken.
Plums These delicious deep purple fruits are in season now, and are one of my favorite fruits to cook with. My mother’s plum jam was something I loved as a child, and we used it to make jam thumbprint cookies at Christmas. Plum upside-down cake is a gorgeous dessert, especially when made with a lemon poppy seed cake. Prune plums are the variety most often seen in central Illinois. They are small, dark and egg-shaped. Look for fruits that are firm but not hard, and free from blemishes. Plums can also be brushed with a little olive oil and grilled to serve alongside pork chops.
Winter squash Winter squash, Sugar Pie pumpkins, acorn squash, butternut squash, banana squash, spaghetti squash and kabocha squash are all varieties of cucurbits, or winter squash. Like apples, they work well in both sweet and savory preparations. Winter squash has a hard outer skin, with yellowish flesh inside and a seedy center. They all have a sweet, pumpkin-y flavor, but each variety has a slightly different flavor and texture that lends itself to certain preparations.
Cutting a hard winter squash is a daunting task for many folks. A large, very sharp chef’s knife is essential – most accidents happen with dull knives. Cut off the stem ends of the squash, then cut in half lengthwise and scoop out the stringy seeds (save those to roast in the oven for a snack later). For an odd-shaped squash like butternut, you may find it easier to cut off the rounded end and deal with the cylindrical shaped stem end separately. If your recipe calls for squash to be blended or pureed, like in a soup or a pie, simply place the cut ends down on an oiled baking sheet and roast at 375 degrees until it can be easily pierced with a knife. When cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh from the skin and proceed with your recipe.
If your recipe calls for cubed squash you can peel the squash with a vegetable peeler, which is best for varieties like butternut and kabocha. Some varieties of squash, like acorn and delicata, are thin-skinned enough to cook with the peel on. Slices of delicata squash add nutritious bulk to salads, and sections of acorn squash can be roasted alongside a chicken for a satisfying sheet pan supper.
Kale and collards These leafy cruciferous greens actually improve with the cooling temperatures, and will continue to be available through October.
Remove the leaves from the tough stem and sauté, add to soups or chop for a hearty, nutritious salad. Kale salads can stand up to being dressed ahead of time, and actually often improve the dish, as the dressing helps to tenderize the hearty leaves.
Collards are prepared similarly to kale, with the tough center stem being removed. They are delicious when braised with garlic, onion and a ham hock for a classic southern pot of greens. Collards can also be blanched in boiling water for 30 seconds, then plunged into ice water to stop them from cooking, then patted dry and used in a wrap as a nutritious, low-carb alternative to flatbread or tortilla.
Eggplants Ripe eggplants are shiny and firm – press on one with your thumb and the indentation should spring right back. The fuzzy green cap should be tightly attached.
Keep at cool room temperature for about two days; refrigeration may cause the eggplant to brown and change flavor. Its hearty texture makes it a great choice for slicing into rounds and grilling. If the eggplant is particularly large, you may want to peel it, as the skin can sometimes be tough and slightly bitter. Smaller varieties do not need to be peeled. Eggplant can be cut into large dice, sautéed and added to pasta sauce, soups and stews or roasted and added to pizza and hearty grain salads.
Large eggplants can be sliced in half lengthwise with the skin on, placed on an oiled baking sheet and roasted at 375 degrees until they can be easily pierced with a knife. Let cool, then scoop out the flesh and mash with lemon juice, minced garlic, olive oil and tahini to make Babaganoush – a delicious Middle Eastern dip served with toasted pita. I like to roast some extra during the summer season to put in the freezer for winter. Roasted eggplant transforms store bought pasta sauce for an amazingly easy weeknight supper.
Beets This earthy, sweet root vegetable comes in red, pink, orange, yellow and white varieties, as well as a range of sizes. Roasted beets make a delicious addition to soups, purées and wraps. Rinse each bulb and cut larger beets so that all the pieces are about the same size. Drizzle with olive oil and wrap in aluminum foil, then roast in a 375-degree oven for about an hour. When cool enough to handle, open the package and slip the skins off the beets. You may want to wear plastic gloves as the bright pink juice can stain your hands. The common garden beet’s vibrant fuchsia hue will color anything it’s cooked with – try pickling beets with hardboiled eggs for a beautiful snack.
Green beans Green beans can be planted up to the end of July for a late summer picking, which is coming on right about now. Look for bright pods that are firm and plump but not bulging with beans. The ends should be stiff and the pod should break cleanly when snapped. Keep them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week. Green beans lend themselves to speedy, savory dishes like a stirfry or a quick-braised side. Fry some chopped bacon in a sauté pan, then add chopped onions and garlic, and a couple of small potatoes. Add trimmed green beans and water just to the top of the beans. Bring to a boil then reduce heat and simmer for 20-30 minutes.
Ashley Meyer is the executive chef for genHkids, a nonprofit that works to help families live healthier lives. Local farmers markets are a vital component of our community and must be supported if they are to continue to thrive.
