An apple Oktoberfest: gemütlichkeit

FOOD | Julianne Glatz

Apples and Oktoberfest. Could there be a better pairing? Traditional German cuisine is filled with apple dishes, many especially intended for cooler weather.

Gemütlichkeit is a German word that doesn’t have an exact English equivalent single word. But think of a combination of good food, good company, a stein of beer or two and plenty of time to enjoy them all, and you’ll get the idea.

So grab a few friends, try one or more of these recipes and get ready for some gemütlichkeit!

Rotkohl mit apfeln: sweet sour red cabbage with apples

• 1 medium sized head red cabbage (2 1/2-3 lbs.)

• 2-3 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

• 2 c. chopped onions, not super-sweet

• 3 medium sweet/tart apples, such as Jonathans or Mackintosh, peeled, cored and cut into chunks (approximately 2 c.)

• 2/3 c. good quality cider vinegar

• 1 c. apple cider or juice, plus additional if needed

• 1/3 c. packed light brown sugar

• 1 tsp. ground cloves

• 1 T. salt • Freshly ground pepper to taste Quarter the cabbage and wash under cold running water, removing any tough outer leaves. Remove the core and slice into thin shreds.

In a large, heavy casserole or pot (4-5 quarts), cook the bacon over medium-high heat until the bacon is crisp and has rendered all its fat. Add the apples and onions and cook stirring frequently, until they are well browned, 5-10 minutes.

Add the remaining ingredients and stir well to combine. Cover the pot and cook, stirring every couple of minutes, until the cabbage is wilted, about 8-10 minutes. When the cabbage has wilted, reduce the heat to a bare simmer.

Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is tender, 30 minutes to 1 hour. If the rotkohl seems dry, add a little more cider or water, a couple of tablespoons at a time. It should be moist but not swimming in liquid. About halfway through the cooking time, taste to adjust the balance of sweet and sour, adding a little more vinegar or brown sugar if you want. When the cabbage is tender, taste for seasoning and serve warm. Can be made ahead – even a few days. It reheats very well. Serves 6-10.

For years my family’s favorite breakfast sausage was the applewurst from Humphrey’s market. When they quit making it years ago, I immediately set about creating an applewurst recipe of my own. Humphrey’s version was stuffed into casings. While mine certainly can be as well, I’ve always just made patties or balls. And while we primarily enjoy it at breakfast, it makes a fantastic burger. I like to use pretzel buns, a slice of butterkäse cheese, and a smear of Düsseldorf-type mustard.

Apfelwurst: apple sausage

• 1 1/2 lb. ground pork

• 1 c. applesauce

• 1 c. loosely packed minced scallions

• 1 1/2 tsp. salt, or more or less to taste

• 1/2 tsp. freshly ground pepper or to taste

• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon, or to taste

• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground nutmeg, or to taste

• 1/4 tsp. freshly ground allspice, or more or less to taste

• Dry breadcrumbs or finely crushed cracker crumbs, if needed Mix all ingredients gently but thoroughly.

If your applesauce is on the thin side, you may want to add breadcrumbs a couple tablespoons at a time to tighten the mixture up.

Fry a tablespoon or so of the sausage to check the seasonings and adjust to your taste. The sausage is best if the mixture is allowed to stand, refrigerated, overnight to let the flavors develop. Form the mixture into burger-size patties, smaller patties or balls and sauté until cooked through. The mixture may also be stuffed into casings to form links. Makes about 1 3/4 lbs.

American grocery or bakery strudels range from excellent to awful (made with canned apples and vegetable shortening). But even the best can’t top this one, made with seasonal apples and real butter, raisins and a touch of applejack or cider. Sprinkling coarse sugar between the layers of phyllo dough makes it unusually light and crunchy. Speaking of phyllo dough, if you’ve never worked with the paper thin layers (available in the frozen section of most groceries) don’t be intimidated. It’s actually very easy to work with. Most tears can be patched easily, and for those that aren’t, there’s usually more sheets in the package than you’ll need. These days, phyllo often comes in half-sized sheets. If your grocery doesn’t have the full size called for in this recipe, use double the number of sheets. Simply brush a little melted butter in a thin strip down a short side of one sheet and slightly overlap another sheet onto it. You can also make two smaller strudels.

Apfel strudel: apple strudel

• 1/2 c. golden raisins

• 2 T. applejack, calvados or apple cider

• 10 T. unsalted butter, plus additional if needed

• 1/3 c. fresh breadcrumbs from homemade type white bread

• 2 lb. seasonal golden delicious apples or other seasonal tart/sweet apples

• 1 T. cider vinegar

• 1/3 c. sugar

• 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

• 1/3 c. finely chopped lightly toasted walnuts

• 7 full size phyllo leaves, defrosted, plus additional if needed

• Turbinado sugar, also called coarse sugar or sugar in the raw for sprinkling • Confectioner’s sugar for dusting, optional

Cinnamon cream topping:

Stir 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon and 2 tablespoons sugar into 1 cup whipped cream, sour cream, or yogurt. Refrigerate until using.

Combine the raisins and applejack or cider in a small bowl, cover with plastic wrap and microwave on high heat for 1 minute. Let stand until the raisins have absorbed the liquid and have come to room temperature.

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a medium skillet and add the breadcrumbs over medium heat and stir until the breadcrumbs are crisp and golden, 2-3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside. Peel and core the apples, then cut them into slices about 1/8-inch thick. Put the apples in a large bowl and toss with the vinegar. Add the raisins, breadcrumbs, sugar, walnuts and cinnamon and mix well.

Preheat the oven to 475 F. Melt the remaining butter in a small skillet or bowl.

Unfold the phyllo leaves and cover with a towel, or sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap so that the phyllo does not dry out.

Place one sheet of the phyllo dough on a sheet of parchment paper or large lint-free towel with the widest side of the phyllo closest to you. Very lightly brush the phyllo with butter and lightly sprinkle with a couple of teaspoons of the turbinado sugar. Place another leaf of the phyllo on top of the first and repeat.

Continue until you have used 6 sheets of phyllo. It is OK if there are some tears in the phyllo, but if they are major, jut discard the sheet and use another. Place the last sheet of phyllo on top. Place the filling in a 3-inch wide strip toward the bottom, leaving a 2-inch border on the bottom and sides. Fold the sides over and then carefully bring up the bottom. Roll in a loose cylinder (rolling too tightly can cause it to burst while baking).

Carefully place the strudel seam side down on a baking sheet. Brush the top lightly with butter and sprinkle with a little more of the coarse sugar. Cut 3 or 4 slits in the top and bake for 20-25 minutes or until the strudel is golden brown. Cool on a rack until warm, 30- 40 minutes. Dust with confectioner’s sugar if desired, cut into slices and serve with a dollop of cinnamon cream topping.

Contact Julianne Glatz at realcuisine.jg@gmail.com.