FOOD | Julianne Glatz

In Dublin’s fair city, Where girls are so pretty, I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone, As she wheeled her wheelbarrow Through streets broad and narrow, Crying, “Cockles and mussels, alive, alive O!” –Traditional Irish folk song

It starts early every March – earlier, really. No sooner does the Valentine’s Day paraphernalia disappear from stores – after a week or so of post-holiday discounts – than a rash of green takes its place: green felt bowlers and top hats, corny cardboard leprechauns, glittery shamrock garlands, green wigs and more. The cabbage sections in groceries’ produce departments dou ble in size; meat departments display corned beef specials. St. Patrick’s Day is coming!

Ironically, things are far different in Ireland. St. Patrick’s Day as a giddy bacchanal is a peculiarly American institution. The Irish have traditionally celebrated it – if it can even be called a celebration – primarily as a religious holiday. Lately there’s been some movement towards making it a more festive occasion. But that’s because of American influence reaching back “over the pond” rather than the other way around.

The American St. Patrick’s Day probably evolved because of Irish-Americans’ nostalgia for their homeland. A bigger mystery is why Americans believe corned beef and cabbage is the traditional St. Patrick’s Day – or even Irish – meal. (There’s more about the Irish “Corned beef myth” in my 3/12/08 column, available at illinoistimes.com.)

The Irish have long been famous for their love of drinking. That’s obviously an overgeneralization. Ireland has been called a land of poets and drunks; several of its most famous citizens have been both. And that greenest of countries makes some of the world’s best beers and whiskies.

There’ll be lots of Americans guzzling lots of those beers and whiskies on St. Patrick’s Day. But instead of overindulging, I’ll be showing my Irish spirit (one of my greatgrandmothers was Bridget Sheehan) by preparing these truly traditional Irish dishes that showcase classic Irish spirits.

Contact Julianne Glatz at [email protected].