REALCUISINE | Julianne Glatz

No one knows who invented them. No one knows when. Both are Italian but are never found in Italy. But they’ve been a staple of American Italian restaurants for decades.

Food writer David Rosengarten remembers “alla francese” preparations as part of his first “ethnic” dining experiences, not least because they were his mother’s favorite “Italian” food. He speculates that the name came about in the 1930s, when Italian food was regarded as lowbrow. Only French food was thought classy and sophisticated; Italian restaurant owners might have developed the dish and named it “alla francese” to upgrade the tone of their menus. Rosengarten notes that “alla francese” may have been inspired by a Neapolitan dish of battered and fried artichoke hearts. But alla francese’s light, eggy coating is elegant and lighter than a thick  batter or alla Milanese’s heavy breading of flour, egg, and breadcrumbs, often served with a thick tomato sauce.

Chicken Vesuvio isn’t just Italian American, it’s Italian American, Chicagostyle. It does, however, have definite antecedents in simple roast chicken with potatoes found throughout Italy. Its origins – at least regarding its name – are unknown, but there was a Vesuvio Restaurant on Wacker Drive in Chicago in the 1930s. Regardless, it quickly became a local Italian restaurant staple. Chicken Vesuvio appears in a 1930s menu from Colosimo’s on South Wabash, “where Al Capone got his start.” That’s according to John Drury, whose 1931 book, Dining in Chicago, provides a fascinating glimpse into the Windy City’s dining scene of that era. Colosimo’s became famous – actually

infamous – when owner “Big Jim” Colosimo was killed by one of Capone’s henchmen in 1920. By the 30s, Drury describes it as “just another nightlife center” with a seven-course table d’hote dinner for $1.50, featuring a whole baby lobster. An orchestra provided music for dancing and there were ‘Horse Races’ where you may act as jockey and perhaps win a prize. No, you won’t get shot here, and the eminent Mr. Capone is never seen in the place – now that he’s been graduated,” Drury dryly noted.

Chicken Vesuvio and Chicken Francese may not be authentically Italian. But they’re authentically Italian American, still easily found in old school Italian American restaurants. And they’re still delicious.

Contact Julianne Glatz at [email protected].