It was our dining Bible when my husband was in dental school in Chicago: The Good But Cheap Chicago Restaurant Guide. Because of TGBCCRG, we ate out frequently, even with little money and a baby-then-toddler. Many were ethnic – Bohemian restaurants where roast pork or half-duck dinners (including soup and dessert) cost $7.50; Italian joints in the deteriorating neighborhood between U of I’s medical and Circle campuses, where Mama cooked, and the front door was kept locked.
Our favorite was a miniscule Lithuanian, Tulpe. Filled (and filling) dumpling-esque dishes dominated. Some were round, some cylindrical, stuffed with meat, cheese or potato; all were topped with bacon, fried onions and sour cream. They were delicious but that wasn’t the only reason we loved Tulpe: On our first visit, the waitress wanted to show the cooks our redheaded 6-month-old; ever after, the cooks played with Anne in the kitchen while we ate. It was impossible to spend more than $10 for two – with leftovers.
Three decades later, Chicago’s dining scene has exploded. Many “foodies” – even in New York and L.A. – think Chicago currently has America’s most exciting restaurant scene. Much of that buzz is about high-end, highpriced establishments.
But there are also lots of moderately-priced – some downright cheap – places that make Chicago a top dining destination. If you’re in Chicago and don’t want to spend a bundle, you can eat cheap at fast-food chains, have a mediocre, moderately-priced meal at tourist joints….or you can eat extraordinary food that’s extraordinarily inexpensive. Here’s just a sampling. It’s not a comprehensive list – not even a comprehensive list of my own favorites. Some are old; others new. Some are ultra-casual; others sophisticated. A good source for restaurants in all price ranges is Time Out Chicago magazine. Each week’s print edition lists a rotating selection. TOC also publishes a yearly guide; that information, and updates, can be found online at www.timeoutchicago. Food blogs such as Chowhound (www.chowhound.com) and LTH Forum, www.lthforum.com are also useful.
Al’s #1 Italian Beef, 1079 W. Taylor. There are many Chicago beef stands, but this is not only the oldest (1938), in my opinion, it’s the best. The beef is great by itself, but even better paired with Italian sausage in the “combo.” Either way, do what Chicagoans do and get it dipped – the entire sandwich, including bread, dunked in au jus – and then topped with giardinara (a spicy hot pepper relish). It’s an absolutely scrumptious mess – bring a bib or wear something washable. Al’s is an especially good summer destination because across the street is….
Mario’s Italian Lemonade, 1068 W. Taylor. This tiny stand, decorated with lights made from old Chlorox bottles, is just a kid compared to Al’s: it opened in 1954. Mario’s uses only fresh lemons – peels included. There are flavorings; the best are made with chunks of fresh fruit such as cantaloupe, watermelon or strawberry. There’s nothing more refreshing on a hot, humid summer day.
Hot Doug’s, 3324 N. California. Lots of Windy City spots serve classic Chicago-style hot dogs, and Hot Doug’s version is as good as any. But it’s the other items on the menu that put Hot Doug’s a notch above. The only downside is that there’s likely to be a line stretching around the block – sometimes even if it’s raining or snowing. That’s because Chicagoans know that when they finally belly up to the counter to place their order, they’ll find dogs ranging from Chicago classic, to upscale dogs made with such things as chicken, cognac and cranberries, or foie gras and Sauternes duck sausage dogs topped with truf-
