ties. Jane and Michael Stern began a monthly RoadFood column, discovering the best American regional food in out-of-theway cafés and diners.

After MacAusland’s retirement, two editors oversaw Gourmet for two decades, expanding its scope but leaving the format mostly unchanged, even after its purchase by Condé Nast in 1983. Ruth Reichl’s appointment as editor-in-chief in 1999 heralded a new era. Gone were lengthy restaurant reviews and historically detailed travel pieces. I missed them, but became equally enthusiastic about in-depth articles about the contemporary food scene and issues that focused on a single topic. Most of all I appreciated the explorations of the “politics of the plate” – reporting that illustrated food impacts on much more than I’d discovered in my first Gourmets: international diplomacy, the economy, politics and the environment.

What Reichl kept – what had been integral to Gourmet since its inception – was exceptional writing and photography.

Gourmet had become an institution, but its evolution had ensured that it remained America’s premier food publication. So it was shocking when Condé Nast announced Oct. 6 that Gourmet’s November issue would be its last, a victim of sharply reduced advertising revenues. Reichl and her staff were as stunned as anyone; she said in an interview on public radio’s Fresh Air, “None of us saw this coming.”

In that same interview, it was clear Reichl viewed Gourmet much as I have over the years. She talked about “food as culture,” and said, “Food is one prism for looking at the world.”

Though it had far more personal impact for her, I was as shocked as Reichl about Gourmet’s demise. I’ve even going through the classic stages of grief. Right now I’m somewhere between anger and depression, and a long way from acceptance.

IT editor Fletcher Farrar e-mailed me after hearing the news: “What are you going to do without Gourmet magazine?” Answer: I’ll get by. But it sure creates a big empty space in the food world.

Contact Julianne Glatz at [email protected].