Merlot Revisited

With the enormous success of the 1976 vintage, merlot became an overnight star in the California wine industry. By the 1980s, merlot enjoyed a surge in popularity, and by the 1990s, it surpassed the “king” of red wines in the United States, cabernet sauvignon, as consumers suddenly discovered they could enjoy aromas and flavors similar to those of cabernet sauvignon in a fleshier, softer wine with smooth tannins. In California plantings alone, acreage planted rose from 4,000 in 1988 to more than 50,000 today.

France is home to nearly two-thirds of the world’s plantings of merlot. It is the most widely planted red grape in France’s Bordeaux region – yet lacking in the structure and stature of its fellow Bordeaux grape, cabernet sauvignon. In the traditional Bordeaux blend, merlot’s role is to add body and softness and is often blended with cabernet sauvignon or cabernet franc, which contributes to the structure, depth of flavor and “age ability” that merlot lacks.

In 2004, merlot lost some of its luster as sales dropped 2 percent, and pinot noir increased 16 percent in the western United States as the result of the 2004 lm “Sideways” that showcased pinot noir as the new darling varietal. Still today, California’s best merlots, some of which predated the vogue of this varietal in the 1990s, continue to be some of the nest examples outside of Bordeaux. In addition, during the 1980s, merlot helped put Washington wine industry on the world’s wine map. The state’s climate produces wine with New World fruitiness and Old World structure.

Co-founded by Dan and Margaret Duckhorn in 1976, Duckhorn Vineyards has spent more than 30 years establishing itself as one of North America’s premier producers of Bordeaux varietal wines. It was the tradition to craft quality wines that the Duckhorns made an early decision to focus on the production of merlot. While many Napa Valley wineries were using merlot as a blending grape in the late seventies, few were exploring the potential for this varietal as a stand-alone wine.

A great fan of merlot since traveling to St. Emilion and Pomerol, Dan Duckhorn felt that this elegant varietal was under – appreciated in North America. The Duckhorn merlot is the winery’s flagship wine; look for these wines as they are consistently rated 90-plus points: Duckhorn Vineyards, Napa Valley – Three Palms Vineyard; Estate Grown Rector Creek Vineyard; Estate Grown Stout Vineyard; Atlas Peak Napa Valley; and the Carneros Napa Valley. Duckhorn does not ship directly to the consumer in Louisiana. Check your favorite retailer to nd one of these outstanding wines. You will not be disappointed.

For decades, Washington State Merlot wines have taken the world by storm as beautifully concentrated, lush wines that balance power and elegance. Leonetti Cellar was founded by Gary and Nancy Figgins in 1977 as Walla Walla’s first commercial winery. It was Gary Figgin’s grandparents, Francesco and Rosa Leonetti, who immigrated to Walla Walla from Calabria, Italy, in 1905 as farmers. The rich heritage and passion for “quality without compromise” has pushed Leonetti Cellar Merlot to the forefront with consistent accolades for their vintages with 90-plus points. The Leonetti Cellar Merlot is 100 percent merlot with grapes from wineries Mill Creek Upland, Loess and Seven Hills vineyards. Aged 15 months in new and neutral French oak barrels and neutral French oak botti highlight flavors that move through strawberry, raspberry and bing cherry with great texture and a fine lingering finish. These wines have a limited allocation but are worth the find.

For more than 150 years, the Gundlach Bundschu family has been farming their vineyards in the Sonoma Valley, Carneros and Napa Valley appellations, and thanks to founder Jacob Gundlach, they are the oldest family-owned winery in California. In 1858, Jacob purchased 400 acres in Sonoma, returned to his homeland Bavaria and married his childhood sweetheart, Eva. Their honeymoon was spent traveling through France and Germany, where they bought rootstock for their 400 Sonoma Valley acres. During Prohibition, GunBun, as they are known, ceased producing wine and sold their grapes to other winemakers. It was only in 1969 that Jim Bundschu started a four-year project to replant the vines with premium varieties, and in 1973, they welcomed their first crush. Since that time, GunBun has been producing small lots of “ultra premium” wines from their historic property.

They probably feel there has been “much ado about nothing” regarding the “death” of merlot because their enthusiasm for this powerful varietal has never wavered, and their belief is that “great wine transcends fashion.”

Another of our favorites is Kenefick Ranch Winery located in the foothills of the Palisades Mountains in Calistoga. Retired neurosurgeon Dr. Thomas P. Kene ck purchased the 125-acre property in 1978, where later would be planted red Bordeaux varietals, including, of course, merlot. While this winery is somewhat of a “new kid on the block” compared to older estates, their wines have had stunning success. Winemaker Kent Jarman comes from a culturally rich southern Louisiana background. His grandfather was in the wine distribution business, and Jarman was destined to make his own mark in wine. After a UC Davis education, several internships and five years of tutelage, he left Duckhorn and became the winemaker for Kenefick. His passion for quality is apparent and he consistently brings quality to the wines.

So, for whatever reason you may have neglected this powerful varietal, try it again. You are sure to be delighted.

Roxanne Bosserman has called Shreveport home since 1977 when she began a career with IBM. Although not a Louisiana native, her love for food, friends and wine has made the Bayou State her “perfect home.” Carol Gekakis is a Shreveport native and lives — for the most part — in Perdido Key, Fla. Both women have served as president of the Southern Trace Wine Club.