Pursuit of the perfect shrimp

THE LADY WHO LUNCHES

One of the blessings of living in Louisiana is our access to fresh Gulf seafood. While crawfish, crab and oysters have their prime seasons, my perennial favorite is shrimp. In this state of bliss known for our culinary arts, large, succulent, perfectly cooked shrimp is still harder to find than you might think.

Properly cooked shrimp has a plump firmness that offers a brief resistance before your teeth sinks into its silky flesh. There is a short window between the slick, teeth-squeaking bite of raw or undercooked shrimp, and being overcooked. Shrimp should be tender without being meaty, chewy or tough.

When it comes to taste, there is no substitute for a well-cooked dish. One thing I dislike is getting my hands filthy eating bland shellfish that is gritty with the red “shaken on after the fact” spices that plague many North Louisiana shrimp and crawfish boils.

Angela Dubois, owner of Herby K’s, kicked off my obsession to write about the most succulent shrimp of Shreveport, when she delivered a bowl full of fresh-boiled crustaceans to a Mardi Gras event we were attending. After biting into the clean-tasting flesh, it was instantly obvious that these shrimp were boiled in an impeccably seasoned pot. There was a lovely hint of spice that, while notable, did not overpower the delicate seafood. She also brought their special remoulade sauce, which was delicious dipped with their garlic bread. Since that event, every platter of boiled shrimp eaten at Herby K’s has been perfectly prepared. Simply peel and eat without even a squeeze of lemon to distract.

Another favorite dish is the boiled shrimp cocktail at La Jaibita, an authentic Mexican restaurant in Bossier City. These shrimp are not the cold, dank, limp crescents clinging to the edge of shot glasses served in some mediocre banquet halls. You will love La Jaibita’s version, presented in a large, heavy goblet filled with a generous portion of plump, firm shrimp tossed in a delectable horseradish cocktail sauce. This mouthwatering goblet of goodness is garnished with the cool, creamy contrast of ripe avocado slices. It gets even better! The seafood version is a goblet filled with a blend of shrimp, oysters, ceviche (marinated white fish) and pulpo (octopus).

If you like meals with an Italian flair, the Fruitti di Mare at L’Italiano is a symphony of seafood perfection. Simmered in the white wine tomato sauce are small shrimp cooked in the sauce for flavor, clams (a huge favorite), steamed mussels and squid. All of these succulent ingredients are swirled on a bed of linguini and crowned with large, plump shrimp. The sauce is an excellent complement, light and savory without overwhelming the seafood’s natural flavor. Pair this dish with the quality service of a skilled professional wait staff and a sparkling wine, divine.

One Wednesday, I was craving the crustaceans so much that the lunch special of Shrimp Crepes lured me into the Cloud 9 Café at the Downtown Airport, less than five minutes from my Shreveport office. First impressions are key. Opening the door, a clean, bright atmosphere filled with the energy of happy customers greeted me. From the natural light of wall-to-wall windows overlooking the flight line to the skillful menu, the Cloud 9 Café sparkles with the personality of owner Tina Marie Palmisano.

Presented with a smile, the colorfully plated Shrimp Crepe was lightly golden with a garnish of cherry tomato, green onion, two delicate wedges of oranges and a lashing of sauce. Still, as my fork cut through the delicate crepe, I was not prepared for the airy, light-herbed filling that melted into a savory delight on my tongue. Too often crepes are served with a thin cream sauce that runs out of them and across the plate, but this was a substantive, rich, yet fluffy and light filling that paired deliciously with each bite of perfectly cooked shrimp. 

The soft-shelled crab po-boys and Philly cheese steaks being dealt among other tables offer other good reasons to visit, but I’ll still be scanning the weekly lunch specials in search of the next Shrimp Crepe special.

So far, we have talked about boiled, steamed and sautéed, but what about fried? The South loves its fried food, so we have a large selection. While fried food is not my usual choice, shrimp at The Blind Tiger restaurant make it hard to choose between Voodoo Style, remoulade or butterflied. Regardless, they are lightly battered and consistently perfect, never overcooked.

Another that stands out for novelty and flavor is Herby K’s Shrimp Buster. These large butterflied shrimp pounded flat before frying are amazing served on slices of toasted, buttered French bread with a side of handdipped onion rings and Shrimp Buster sauce. I do not understand how thin makes it taste so great, but it does.

One more great way to have perfectly cooked shrimp is to bake it right in your own oven. Toss your shrimp (shell-on or shelled) in virgin olive oil and your favorite seasoning, spread a single layer of shrimp in a baking dish, slice at least one or two sticks of butter over the layer and bake. My favorite recipe from “Pioneering Woman,” Spicy Shrimp, incorporates Worcestershire and Tabasco in the seasoning. Regardless of the recipe used, they agree on one thing: Bake with real butter! Baking rather than boiling eliminates the water, meaning every moist morsel is full of flavor.

Whether it is the superb Seafood Tower at Superior Steakhouse or my favorite Shrimp and Scallops in Brown Sauce at Lucky Palace, or any of these restaurants mentioned, all have made the effort to provide consistent quality. Finding the most succulent shrimp of Shreveport/Bossier means that they never disappoint, always perfect every time. Enjoy!

Lynn Laird is a writer, fine artist and self-professed bon vivant living in Bossier. With her “Flair for Cooking” blog, she seeks out interesting ingredients and techniques to help make everyday meals just a touch more fabulous. She can reached at [email protected].