Mandina’s familiarity returns downtown

With all of the snow, ice and rain we have experienced recently, the warm friendly atmosphere at Mandina’s Grill seemed like the perfect way to brighten yet another dismally grey afternoon. Everyone walking in the door is cheerfully greeted, often with handshakes and hugs. It does not take long to realize family is at the heart of this downtown restaurant and has been for decades.

For more than 40 years, T.J. Mandina operated a full-service grocery at this location providing the surrounding community with necessities, a fresh sliced deli counter and plate lunches. When T.J.’s daughter, Malissa Mandina Carroll, was 25-years-old she joined her father working in the store. As the mother of a newborn, she left her position in finance to join the family business, so she could bring her daughter to work with her.

Her smile was contagious as Missy shared that all three of her children learned to walk, run and ride their bikes there, growing up at what was really much more than just a grocery store.

Then in 2009, the same tornado that toppled the steeple off of the First United Methodist Church at the head of Texas Street tore the roof off of their business located nearby at 830 Fannin St. on the West Edge of downtown Shreveport. As they planned to rebuild, the Mandinas took into account the changing landscape and community of the area and chose to reopen the business as a restaurant property to be leased. However, lucky for the public after a few other restaurateurs had leased the space, in October 2013, Missy and her father reopened a new incarnation of the family business, Mandina’s Grill, once again serving meals prepared with a personal touch.

How personal, you ask? Even with very good kitchen staff, Missy said her father comes in personally to make the meatballs. The red sauce served over their spaghetti and meatballs is made using the original family recipe that has graced plates of pasta for generations.

There are many dishes yet to try, but so far my favorite is the lightly herbed and savory lasagna baked from Missy’s own personal recipe.

T.J. and Missy also work together making Mandina’s Italian sausage. The Italian sausage po-boy with its links and special olive mix is expectedly popular, but the patty-style Italian Sausage burger is also in big demand. A heartwarming photo showing T.J. teaching Missy’s son, Thomas Carroll, how to make the sausage, gives hope that this delicious tradition will continue forward with future generations.

For those looking for a lighter fare, try the Italian salad of mixed greens, Leona’s special olive mix, tomato and Parmesan. The olive mix as well as their remoulade sauce and salad dressings are all made inhouse. If you enjoy an olive mix as much as I do, it is also a featured ingredient in Leona’s Italian Po-Boy and the muffaletta.

In addition to traditional Italian dishes, the Mandina’s took into consideration the southern plate lunch favorites of many afternoon diners. They offer daily specials with an entree, two sides and cornbread for $7.99. Heaping servings of pork chops, beef tips and rice, chicken fried steak, hamburger steak or red beans and rice are paired with a mouth watering choice of English peas, green beans, corn, mustard greens, mashed potatoes and gravy, or rice and gravy.

Mandina’s Grill also offers fried catfish and fried shrimp in both platters and po-boys. It was a pleasure to find that these dishes, which are often over cooked at many restaurants, were very lightly battered and perfectly fried. The fish and shrimp in the po-boys that I have tried retained a nice light firm texture and fresh flavor.

I have to admit that while I thoroughly enjoyed my catfish po-boy served on French bread with homemade remoulade sauce, the pork chops ladled with brown gravy and onions with sides of mashed potatoes and mustard greens served to my neighboring table made my mouth water. It was definitely photo worthy and topping the list for my next visit.

No matter what I order, I always make room for their famous cannoli, even if it is in a to-go box. In an effort to provide the best version of this dessert possible, Missy has their cannoli shells shipped in from a bakery in New York. T.J. prepares the heavenly filling, a combination of ricotta cheese, powdered sugar, almond extract, cocoa powder and chocolate chips that is piped into the shells.

Centrally located at 830 Fannin St. on the West Edge of downtown just over Common Street near Millennium Studios, Mandina’s Grill has a large parking area that makes it easily accessible. This is a huge plus for those wanting to enjoy lunch downtown where parking and time are always a premium. They are also one of the few restaurants in downtown open on Monday. They are there 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday preparing those special family recipes just for you.

So stop in soon, and tell Missy, TJ. and Leslie, the waitress who always seems to have a beaming smile, that I said, “Hello.”