David Morrison, deputy master blender at Appleton Estate RumAppleton Estate, the home to Appleton Estate Rum, is situated on the oldest sugar estate and distillery on the Caribbean Island of Jamaica. Founded in 1749, the lush rum estate celebrated its 275th anniversary this year.
When any business has been around for that many years, it develops its own sense of history and distinction. David Morrison is the deputy master blender at Appleton Estate, making him a custodian of the rich heritage and history surrounding the oldest continuously operating rum distillery in Jamaica. Under the stewardship of Morrison and Appleton Estate Master Blender Dr. Joy Spence, the distillery’s aged rums have garnered numerous awards and accolades.
David has had a strong connection to his country’s cultural and culinary traditions from an early age. He was born and raised in Kingston, Jamaica, and continually watched his parents and grandparents showcase their love for food and all things Jamaican. His journey into the world of rum began when he joined Appleton Estate as a senior analyst in July 1999, where he had the privilege of learning from some of the industry’s best-known legends, including Dr. Joy. David’s dedication, natural talent and unwavering commitment to quality set him apart, and he quickly rose through the ranks. He was named senior blender in 2003, assuming the responsibility of curating and blending the distillery’s premium rums and working closely with Dr. Joy on blends such as Appleton Estate Decades and Appleton Estate 15YO Black River Casks. He was named deputy master blender in 2024.
The Bay State Banner caught up with Morrison in Virginia at the Salamander Hotel and
Resort’s Family Reunion, the immersive food and beverage experience
celebrating diversity in the hospitality community. He answered our
questions about what it takes to be a master distiller, what makes
Appleton Estate so special and the keys to a good rum, and said the
passing of traditions and knowledge from generation to generation is
part of what sets the rum brand apart.
How did you get become a master blender?
I
get asked that question very often, but I’m going to say it’s just by
chance, to be to be honest. I did chemistry in school. I went to
University of the West Indies, which is, you know, one of the major
universities in Jamaica, with campuses across the Caribbean. I’ve always
been a nerd, so I had a real passion for chemistry. That’s one of my
favorite subjects. So I did chemistry and management for my bachelor’s.
When I graduated, I had one of my professors come to me one day, and he
was like, J. Wray & Nephew, that was a company that owned Appleton
Estate at the time, needed somebody to help them out with some stuff in
their laboratory. After kind of hopping, skipping and jumping around for
maybe a month or two, I went down there, had a good conversation with
them. It was literally a fit made in heaven, because it gave me the
opportunity to practice a lot of what I learned in school.
Within
the first, maybe the first a year and a half, I started working with
Joy Spence, who was the master blender at the time. We used to work very
closely on a number of different projects investigating the science
behind the rums, those sorts of things, you know, what contributed to
flavors, etc.
Could
you explain what it’s like to create a product that so many people
love, and what are the different nuances that you try to bring out in
the product?
One
of the beautiful things about rum is that it’s an expression of the
person that’s creating it. It’s a completely perfect harmony between
science and art.
And
so as we go through the exercise of creating a new rum or creating a new
blend, it’s about understanding what it is that we want to showcase to
whoever is about to consume it. We go through the whole exercise of
evaluating all the individual rums that we’re considering for the blend,
once we’ve figured out the nuances of each of these marks, and we
figure out which ones we want to showcase in the blend, and that helps
us to kind of put everything together, to come up with that final
product. It is an exercise of love, to be to be honest.
What are the different things that you look for when making a blend?
One
of the interesting things is that we age our rums in once-used bourbon
barrels. And so for every year of aging, the nuances of the rum, it
changes completely based on the barrel and what’s being extracted from
them. It gives the rum an amazing set of additional nuances, other than
what was created when we first manufactured the rum. So when it comes to
the point of blending, that’s why your sense of evaluation is so
important, because there are so many nuances to work with, so many
characteristics that come through from every single different type or
style of rum that’s been aging in a barrel. It’s also amazing, because
no two barrels do the same work. Every barrel is its own separate
processing vessel and gives its own character. And so when we create,
especially our limited-time offerings, we get as specific as trying to
find a specific set of barrels that we want to use in the blend. It gets
to the point of evaluating individual barrels and then figuring out,
OK, these are the barrels that we want to use, and based on these flavor
nuances, based on what we want for the project, this is how we’re going
to put it together. And so it literally is a wonderful expression of
the artist that is creating the blend. And I think that’s one of the
things that really, really hits home to me.